Jaipur, Jaisalamer, home!

From Varanasi we flew into Jaipur... This might not have been the best idea, but we had a company pick us up, take us to the amber fort light show and then a dinner.

Our plane was delayed and we missed the English version of the light show, but the Hindi one was still ok, such a cool site!

Dinner was great but the music and dance group was kinda annoying, they were insisting people to dance with them (we are eating goddammit!).

Another overnight train to Jaisalmer wasn't too bad int he upgraded AC2 sleeper class!

The dessert sarfari was really fun! A good group of people joined us. The camel ride would have been enough after 30 minutes, it was an hour, fine.

They took us to a few sites which were cool... but they didn't offer any explanation. They made us some great indian food and the area we slept in was full on dessert! Great sand dunes, nice sunset, lots of stars. At night it was FREEZING, felt a bit like surviving in nature.

The next day we got massages and got ready for our 17 hours train ride back to dehli! We actually didn't have tickets again! We were waitlisted.

FORTUNATELY, some Canadian from Montreal gave us one ticket he had left, which was AMAZING! I found him on fb to thank him

Varanasi

Holy Varanasi!

One of the holiest places in India. The thing to do is an early morning and evening boat ride along the ganges to see people bathing/drinking the holy water! It's thought that Shiva (one of the super gods) made this ganga with some of his hair. At night there was a Shiva festival, where people were burning dead bodies every 2 minutes.

Note, as this is a very holy place, people send bodies from all over India and the world to have them burned in Varanasi. They work out how much would it will take and light it up. The bodies are generally covered, but still not a pretty site. People are quite aggressive with harassing you, lots of priests asking you to follow them, everyone offering to show you to your hotel, people giving you "free" stuff.

I remember on my boat ride another boat offered me a flower to light and set sail, I aggressively refused but he dropped it in my boat, then said "30 rupees" I threw it back at him. I was actually pissed more at my boat guy for letting this nonsense guy talk to me.

There were lots of stores/shops with the same name, The brown bread bakery, Blue lassi, what the hell is wrong with these people. People actually lie claiming "they are the real bakery".

Anytime a shop is featured in Lonely planet it just booms with business. Blue lassi is one of those. It's this guy with a raspy voice, who makes these lassis. The made is wide, but the Lassis are only ok, I really don't see the hype.

He also offers "special" lassis at an extra price. Apparently he WAY overcharges but is able to do that because of all the business he gets. He puts Hash in them and charges about 10 bucks canadian, should be around 2 dollars as per other local people.

Kochi, Agra

So this post is coming a little later.

I was in Kerala for about 2 days, arrived in Kochi where I met a guy from Chicago (Matt), who gave me a free ride using his uber app (he's in India helping to start it up here), THANKS MATT! I owe him a dinner when I get to Chicago.

The highlight of Kerala was going to alleppy and doing a small backwaters tour, was quite peaceful, nice villages. Most people spoke English hear which was nice, apparently the literacy rate is much higher and they learn English after Thamil (then Hindi).

I then met up with a friend and flew to Dehli then a long bus ride to Agra.

Agra was a really nice city, saw about 10 Indian weddings on our way to the hostel. Lots of bright lights and the groom on a horse or carriage.

For the Agra fort we arrived at 6:30 am with our tour guide Ramesh, he was really knowledgable and I booked him because he was recommended through a couple. His facts were bang on (had to keep him honest and verify) and really knew his way around the place. It was a little foggy that day but was still and awesome site. The place is full of monkeys which at times took my attention.

The story of the Taj Mahal is interesting, the Mughal Emperor of India built it as a tomb stone for his 2nd wife! Had all stones, taken in form all over the world! Would be equivalent of billions of dollars these days... the palace looks good but the guy is an idiot. His youngest son overtook him claiming he was insane and put  him away n the Agra fort, where he could watch his Taj mahal from a far!

I was also able to check out the Agra fort and the baby Taj Mahal. Agra fort was so grande, and we did an audio tour, lots of tour guides hang out inside the place was annoying, there English sucked

example

Me: so you're a tour guide
him: yes
me: How many children did Shan Jahan have?
him: 450 rupees!


We took an overnight train to Varanasi which was quite rough, we were waitlisted on the train and didn't have any seats! A sketchy police crew gave us their seat for 1000 rupees while they slept on the floor. It actually seems like they sold us someone else's seat as this guy was complaining to them, I've heard of this corrupt business taking place.  But we survived in the morning!

Palolem, South Goa, SILENT DISCO

I decided to take a 2 hour taxi to venture to South Goa. I was told less touristy and quieter beaches. This is the case! I lucked out with a sweet beach resort, the restaurant looks out to the beach, rooms are nice, and they are filming a Bollywood film in the resort today.

Figure 1: Appears to be a scene taking place around the pool table.

Last night when I arrived was rent a scooter, just so highly efficient, I don't do any super adventurous (like over 30 min) but there is significantly a lot less traffic and so just biking around is really fun with great scenery. I heard about this silent disco last night so I had to check it out. I've seen one once at a music festival (Bonarroo). Everyone got ear phones, and you had three stations you could chose from. I met some really interesting people, one guy was a bollywood actor, I didn't believe him so he showed me some of his commercials... legit.

Then the place turned into a big dance party and several of us agreed to keep it to the Indian Bollywood music station, actor guy was TEARING IT UP. He explained that Indian dancing is alot about your facial expression... so true. His name is Abishek Gupta, may be famous one day.

Most of today I lazed around, got a head massage, hair cut, shave, read of my "what young india wants" book. I also have perfected a great skill in negotiation, not that I really want anything here... but I do enjoy the feeling of A GOOD DEAL! (the jew in me).

credit: this technique was mentioned to me by a colleague who had heard it from a professor
Let's say I want some pants, and I see they all have designs on them. I ask how much. Immediately they quote me something double its actually value. Then conversation would go something like this

Me: wow...
them: ok sir I give you good price
me: ok, I really want this
them: sir good price for you
me: yeah for sure, by the way, do you have any that are only one colour? No designs? (clearly aware that they DO NOT have this)
them: sir great pattern, traditional, very nice
me: yeah they are so nice, but I REALLY only want on colour, oh such a shame, maybe ask your friends, I'll pay higher price, so important its one colour

Basically I keeping explaining how sad I am that they don't have THE ONE THING I WANT (although I could care less, I just want some cheap pants!). This really helps lowering the price...



Dear readers, I will be updated pics into the previous posts, FINALLY 

Scooter Adventures

I finally decided to get a scooter, IT IS SO AWESOME. I'm just whizzing around these beach town, I don't go too fast and there aren't many cars. I checked out this famous Anjuna market which only takes place on Wednesdays. It is SO LARGE, but lots of negotiating lots of junk. I found today an enjoyable bargaining day, about 50% of the merchants speak Russian, which freaks me out. I say the classic "harosho" in Russian and they started approaching me with all there selling Russian phrases. Most of them however... admit they openly don't like Russians. Unfortunately I've seen some pretty rude people in the negotiations (Indians and Russians), can't we all just get along?

I need to find an ATM, and then I plan (somehow) to head to south of Goa, will be a long journey but I think it will be a little more enjoyable to be in a less touristy area.

Spice Plantation, cooking course

Yesterday I visited the spice plantation in ponda. Kashew and a bunch of other indian spices are a big deal here, brought over by the portuguese. For the equivalent of 8 bucks we had a 45 min tour of the demo plantation and a solid Indian lunch. Was worth it but just SO far.

 Figure 1: My Indian guide tour, she seemed quite serious but she was nice. She was talking about a
chilli that was so hot, 1000 times more than normal chilli.. I said "give it to me I'll eat it!" and grabbed it from her hand, she lost it! But thought it was funny when she got that I was kidding.

Figure 2: Me attempting to bite a cinnamon tree, when you scratch the bark it smells great!.

 After I was able to squeeze in an Indian cooking class. Mokti's class. The class had great reviews and initially they were "full" but I got a call saying a spot opened up. For about 30 bucks.. it might have been worth it because I did have dinner taken care of. But there was no great explanation. But I would feel confident to get ingredients to create a solid chicken curry, prawn masala, aloo gobi, and chaptai. I got my first episode of the runs... I blame it on the chicken that was left out... DAMN YOU MOKTI! Fortunately it resolved within 24 hrs, so I didn't take my azithromycin.

Late night was rough, a Canadian had recommended an "awesome" place in anjuna beach. After carrying all my stuff, refusing super expensive taxis, I arrived... it was full of a bunch of hippies and was almost like camping... #I'mAFairyPrincess. So I settled on some other place which had air conditioning but that was the only positive side.

Scuba diving adventures!

This post is a bit behind, but I went Scuba diving around a ship wreck in goa. Was quite fun! And because I'm a little experienced it was me, one instructor and someone else who was a "master" diver. So we wondering around the ship wreck. The visibility was quite poor, couldn't see more than 2 meters in front, but it was fun nevertheless!

Some Indian College students on my trip

Notice the contrast with skin colour

I've finally noticed in Goa, this place is FULL of Russians. Often they speak limited English, and in fact lots of the local Indians here speak RUSSIAN (at least enough to sell them fake fur coats).  In the evening met others in the hostel which was nice, I was too tired to go out... so was everyone else.

goa

Im in goa now, its like a lil tropical paradise, 1 hour plane ride south from mMumbai. Traffic is better and that is GREAT. One thing i can do without is the incessant honking, all the time, often with no need (habit i guess). Staying calm in cabs is a little difficult, I feel like every cab i get into we are so close to hitting people, I try to ask the question "have you ever hit someone" to cab drivers but they dont understand, or just ignore me... meh

My hotel in mumbai was ok, got the job done, but i felt everyone was pushing for tips, normally I'd be a little more generous but i have a bit of displaced anger from all the taxi drivers trying to get more money. They also didn't seem like they knew where fun spots were. But they forgot to give me my credit card back  after i paid and they called my cab to get it back to me.

Of note: *Most taxi drivers i ask, got dowrys when they got married...

Im staying in a hostel in Goa to socialize a bit more, the group seems nice,but i think I'm the only person employed, I guess that makes sense as some people are early twenties, others not so much. One girl was talking about being groped on the subway, my lonely planet has a whole section on women needing to be careful... however I was still surprised that SHE got groped... times must be tough

I'm going scuba diving tomorrow, I get  a refresher course early a.m. and then join a group. I really don't care what i see, just want to bounce around under water. They have some Indian cooking classes which feels super touristy but I'm game. I figured I'll do touristy things up north right now, and then move south for something more quiet.

Feb 7th, slums tour, eating lots, no diarrhea

Having trouble finding Internet cafes, everyone has a cellphone with data.

Today I started out with the reality tour. This was of the slums tour was so interesting, 60% of population in Mumbai lives in the slums , we went to Dharavi which is one of the biggest slums in the world and was featured in Slumdog millionaire. Everyone on the tour heard about it from lonely planet, LOVE THAT BOOK! Every white person in the station (meeting point) was going on the tour.

Was a good group, a couple of french people, an America who was a professor in Abudabi.
Our guides English was solid, he was born and raised in the slums. From a distance and even up close it looked like a big garbage dumpster. But our guide Kumar walked us through most of the slum. It really seemed like a big recycling plant. There would be a huge pile of old used toys that they were breaking apart, shredding the plastic from a machine they made, melting it, and then repacking it in the form of pellets to be sold. This was done with metal, car parts, everything! Lots of this stuff was coming from North America we were told... so that's what happens.

We also saw them making fake leather products, labeling it with Prada, Gucci... etc.

There was about 1 toilet for one thousand and something people? Dogs, cats, and goats seemed to just hang around, pick up scraps, we saw a goat munching on garbage. The good thing about the organization is that 80% of the profits go back into the slum, to help set up educational programs for children.

Lifestyle seemed quite poor but everyone was busy working away. And even though they are on a "slum" everyone has a solid cell phone, many iPhones/samsungs etc.We saw two weddings while we were out and about, they were all dressed up nice, the groom carried a sword, music with drums and trumpet like instruments were playing, was nice.

Slums pic from a glance, we weren't allowed any pics when actually in there.

Indian wedding, whaddup

The rest of the day I focused on eating some solid food. This restaurant Britannia was raved about on zomato and burrp (rating websites used in India) - its Parsi food and the berry pulav was SO good! it was a rice dish with some source of sweet sauce, with berries, chicken and nuts. It comes with a rasberry soda type drink which was like pink crush, great combo. I had to wait about 30 minutes but well worth it.

I went out at night after my 6 pm nap, still have a bit of messed up sleeping schedule but at least I'm waking up super early. I went to a hip going out area called Bandra (sadly things were closing around 12:30 ish so I just ate at 5 spice instead, indo-asian fuisine, which i've been wanting to eat at since I arrived.

Finally, on my way home I had the famous Aji ali drink called Falooda http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falooda, outside a temple where you park your car and they come to you, its like bubble tea with vermicelli, tapioca  - highly refreshing, i had rose flavoured as they were out of custard apple.


Food I ate today was great, britania, 5 spice, aji Ali.

I'm going to Goa tomorrow. HOPEFULLY my hotel will have a solid computer to put up some pics.


An update, my bowels have been regular and great, I'm just focusing on only bottled water... ever. And no shady places on the street. I've traveled a fair bit maybe I've built up some immunity, who knows.

Touring Mumbai

I hiring a tour guide through my hotel, looking him up and down I was certain he was incapable of my tour guide needs but it was 8 o'clock and I have things to see. He was recommended by the hotel, and the hotel has an ok recommendation so I went with him. He took me to some common sites, gateway, hanging trees, silent point, bazaar market, taj mahal palace.

The Taj Mahal palace is a nice hotel, goes for about 270 Canadian a night, I had a walk around inside... it was... nice, Vegas has ruined me.

This is "the gateway to India"

 Taj Mahal Palace, the old Taj Mahal

This is the biggest laundry center in the world, Everyone comes to do their laundry here, how social.

 My tour guide, he was aight

 Lots of dogs in the street are starving... this one is def not

Bazaar market is a huge market where they have large sections of hair/makeup products, fruits, spices, electronics, pets (birds,dogs) all looked fun but there wasn't anything I really needed and there was no magical cheap deals.

Ate at Khyber, solid indian restaurant, It did it up with Chicken Tikka, mango lassi, garlic nan, was great! Though I must say so far the India food I've had has not been significantly better than home Indian food (this is only at the end of the first day). Kulfi is this hard icecream with bits of greatness inside, went to this New Kulfi Center and had supposedly the best, it WAS really good, I had saffron flavour.

The friendly guys who work here.

This was at the best Kulfi centre in Mumbai as per lonely planet, I got Saffron flavour, was REALLY good.

I ate at a restaurant called Status cause I couldn't find the famous 5 spice restaurant, this was great but I'm starting to realize that lots of the meals I'm having work better in groups

No diarrhea yet!! WAHOOOOO

Tomorrow I'm doing a tour of the slums, apparently 60% of the population in mumbai live in the slums. It's called "reality tour", a friend took it#ShoutOutToChrisSeward

I got a simcard with some data for ~ 10 bucks but the internet is slow, and painful, but it is good for finding myself on the map

I arrived!

So far so good, Air India wasn't too bad, hard to sleep but feel the ride went quickly. So far no one has been  super sneaky to my surprise. My hotel room was quite nice, warm water, solid air conditioning, though I'm paying around 60 Canadian  bucks a night.

I ate at Trishna tonight at my hotels recommendation, ballin  seafood restaurant, apparently some famous food guru listed 10 restaurants in separate countries that were worth taking a plane to to eat at, this was one of them. I had this garlic,peppery crab and some type of fish's name I forget, both were good!

Walking around a bit in the evening, people on the streets were selling things as they do in developing countries. I'm used to the "sir what you looking for", and "where you from?". Almost every cab driver at night needs to be negotiated with, unless they have a meter, except one guy WITH a meter was insistent he didn't have change, showing me a small stack of cash with the hundreds on the outside (I opened his hands up to see some smaller bills, PHIL - 1)

Day 1

Going to India, super pumped! Its been awhile since ive had a solid adenture. Starting out in mumbai, at garden hotel. im tying from jons samsung ipad, not so easy. I plan to include lot of pics


stay tuned!